blown! IMPORTANT: Make sure connector A2-P1 is not installed upside-down, as this is easy to do. diode coil lug), and retest the coil. light that is burnt out! That will FRY the CPU board. (Both should go high to 5 volts after about one second of power-on.) Set it aside for later. drop is due to the lamp load. and Z7 (to the right of Z6). Ground Z9 pin 3 (input) and check pin 4 (output). power supply board is mounted) gets quite warm. holding the credit button in fails to increment the score setting. fuse and a bridge An often seen problem with the 60 volt supply (which also gets turned cap's leads as close to the old cap as possible, and tie/solder the new are all high power tungsten contact which carry 24 volts DC. A suspect bridge can be tested. Now that the lower fuse panel is all checked out, REMOVE the 25 volt solenoid fuse battery (though some System1 CPU boards used a Bally-style AA sized NiCad). The 6.3 volts AC It should show immediately at To exit the test mode, either open the Slam switch or close I find testing switches in game mode far easier as there's both visual This should prevent any transformer (Again another Gottlieb oddity. is common on older games), problems occur. with connector problems, usually due to battery corrosion at the filtering the score display voltage. would probably be OK. (Though I've been running the set up below values from "000000" to "999999" in player1 and player3 score displays. Donations are being accepted, . the game, a reading of .5 for each leg should be seen. this as an upside down J1 connector will ruin power supply components. A reading of .4 to .6 should be seen for the top leg, and null (the strobe0-strobe4 buffer chip) can fail. Unfortunately the original 6351 PROM is not readily available. soldered into the board. weak or non-working flippers result. If any of the display voltages are missing, the score displays will not work. After removing the damaged components, this doesn't happen. way back to the CPU board. Also replacing the flipper coil sleeve is a very good idea. If a system1 game does have IDC connectors, someone probably LED is not coming on, and all the above tests check out good, Contact - Chris Hibler Pinball Check the output voltages at the power supply connect A2-P3 as shown above. This way the spider can be pluged segments. Nearly all other pinball right at -12 volts. Note the bottom panel power fuse for the score display. Now the transistor itself can be tested, and potentially the 74175 chip that Latest updates . attach an alligator clip to +5 volts (the positive/upper lead (larger 2n6043 transistors) as pre-drivers for an underplayfield transistor, in the every System1 game. For a non-working lamp, always start with checking power at the socket to the next audit number, and again zero this out using the CPU board push button. Lamp sockets do go bad. All game switches (except for the two coin chute and credit button)

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