Youll never have to worry about losing your position just by touching the lens, but you can always tape the position down to be sure. I've owned a few L lenses and while their USM motors have always been quick to snap in focus, this 135mm is on a different level. DPReview March Madness, round one - vote! Can I assume that this article applies only to full frame & not to micro four thirds? However, I find the process tedious, and prefer single, manually guided, long exposures which seem to have deeper colors. Whos Afraid of a Phantom: Istar Phantom 140mm F/6.5, that is? for sample photos and video tour, This is simply the best Canon prime lens that I have tested. If you aren't completely set on the 135mm, the 200mm f/2.8L is a fantastic lens and i think its less expensive than the 135mm f/2L. Digital sensors are roughly 5 times as sharp as 400-speed film. For example, a friend recently recommended Pentax 6x7 prime lenses which were designed for a large format flat field, and are also adaptable to the EOS system. Your first serious portrait lens should be a modern stabilized 70-200 f/2.8. But even better BOKEH is the SAL-135F2.8F4.5 STF (Smooth Trans Focus ) which has even better BOKEH, albeit a manual focus lens. My 24-70L needs to be stopped down to f5.6 to begin to match the sharpness of my 135L at f2.0 (the test shots were of the portrait of Andrew Jackson on a $20 bill). (purchased for $890), reviewed October 21st, 2005 I therefore reduce the aperture at the front end of the lens (as an aperture stop) by screwing in a series of step-down rings into the filter thread. However, stepping outside to polar align a small star tracker and attach a DSLR and lens is quick and painless. It really is about talent, creativity, and vision, not gear. The lenses I listed are certainly not the ONLY exceptional lenses made over the years. But like a glitch in the matrix, an anomaly that shouldn't exist, you can get the Samyang/Rokinon 135mm for as little as $430 brand new. Just place your subject against a distant background, and half of the job is done. BTW, the 300-mm Tele-Tessar you describe -- what camera was it made for? I almost bought one, but couldn't manage that focal length and DoF with moving subjects and manual focus. Another example is the 100mm (or sometimes 90mm) F2.8 macro lens. How to Find the Perfect Astrophotography Target with Stellarium The image shown below covers 4.96 x 5.98 degrees in the constellation Cassiopeia. I've been using a vintage FD 135/3.5 on my A7R IV as a compact tele option, often alongside a tiny Samyang 75/1.8. This is the EF-M series version. The logic of this article can be applied to a 200/2.8 as well.

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